Vietnam - The Forgotten Days

Part of my desire to travel Vietnam was to learn more about its history, in particular, the Vietnam War.  Whilst my father did not partake in the war, many men of his generation (a few I know personally) did - and they should never be forgotten.  With that in mind, I also wanted to pay my respects and quietly apologise for the actions of my country.

But what I faced, witnessed and learnt in Vietnam shook me to the core.  The picture above is of a statue of a mother and her daughters facing north Vietnam on the border of north and south Vietnam.  Families were split during the Vietnam War - the men and sons went to the north to help fight the communist cause, and the women remained in the south in order to increase chances of some family members staying alive.  Just imagine that unknown last goodbye.      

And of course there were the Viet MOC tunnels.  At the time I was very anxious about walking these tunnels - not that I mentioned this to Luke.  I thought the less I verbally communicated about my anxiety, the less likely it would become real.  These tunnels went 30 feet underground and included maternity wards, family rooms, kitchens and other amazing spaces. As most of you know, Luke and I are very tall - especially in comparison to the North Vietnamese - and had to spend most of the journey in a crouching position.  For the most part there was little lighting and I had to rely on the Japanese man in front of me utilising the flash on his camera in order to see.

During the cramped travels of the tunnels I was in awe with the North Vietnamese's ingenuity. These tunnels were all over Vietnam and took 2 years to build.  Many villages in the South protected these tunnels and it caused great havoc to the Western forces.  In 1975 the Communists took control of the Reformation Palace in Ho Chi Minh City and the Western forces were hightailing it out of there.  An amazing fight by the North - even at the loss of life.

  

Overall, what struck me most was the visit to Khe Sanh (pictures below) where over 22 days of battle 2,000 soldiers from all warring parties were killed.  Some bodies have never been found and Australian widows still make the trip in 2009 to seek their lost loved ones.  The Australian iconic band, Cold Chisel, even sang about it.  Who hasn't heard this song blaring out of a pub? Who hasn't witnessed grown men in a circle belting out the lyrics?  I sure hope they all know what they're singing about.  The survivors of Khe Sanh will never ever forget what they witnessed - 'Tried to find a place to settle down, where my mixed up life could mend'. 

Above is a picture of the 'airstrip' where the Western soldiers tried in vain to escape.  No plant life has ever grown again.  Khe Sanh made me cry.  Below is an extract from my journal.  I wrote it the minute I left Khe Sanh and boarded the bus.  

It was ghostly quiet as the empty souls floated above.  I choked from the whispering screams. Bugs bit at my ankles like dead fingernails scratching their way from the depths of the dirt. This place was so void.  So absent.  But I could feel the rumble of the bloody warfare.  The spirits circled me, wanting to be found and returned home.  But I wasn't the one they wanted. They know who they're waiting for.  I pray they find their peace. 

Visiting Vietnam has changed my life.  It has changed me.  So much about the war is now etched on my conscience.  Especially the part Australia wasn't meant to play.  This is a journey that all Australians should take in order to learn more about our recent history.